K. OLECH
New users: Piotr Mlotecki (leader), W. Branski, An excellent. Gardas, W. Klaput, M. Malatynski K. Olech (deputy commander), J. Olszewski, Yards. Piatkowski, A. Pietraszek (doctor), Yards. Rogalski, Z. Rubinoski, An excellent. Sobolewski, Z. Staszyszyn, A great. Strumitto and you will S. Wdowiak.
The original ASCENT Of KANGBACHEN, 1974
The original group spanning An effective. Gardas, Meters. Malatynski, K. Olech, J. Olszewski, Yards. Rogalski, Good. Sobolewski which have Jepa, Sonam and you will a dozen porters involved the latest Ramtang Valley on the e put in which the Jugoslav journey got from inside the 1965.
We arrive at functions preparing Foot with the chief caravan class, undertaking the latest reconnaissance of npper an element of the area and observing the latest icefall and moraine whereby new Jugoslavs got to the original patio away from escort girl Lansing Kangbachen.
This new icefall, molded on two profile try extremely fractured and also the accumulated snow coating it’s body produced difficult the early observation regarding crevasses. New edges of icefall was indeed threatened by the avalanches, one sooner or later would be as a result of the latest seraes in the earliest patio. m. relaxed and you will ultimately causing avalanches of different items. Due to the recce we chosen a safe route from the middle of the icefall, it getting a relatively hushed area between the seracs and snowfields therefore we going.
Into the 20 April, i pitched the original temporary tent on top of the fresh new embankment out of the first terrace (5750 meters.). Two days afterwards we discover a road from the moraine which try endangered quicker by brick-avalanches than the you to used by brand new Jugoslavs. Go camping I became oriented into the 28 April on 5400 yards. regarding icefall but try just for fool around with when moving new loads. Go camping II (5850 yards.) was a 3rd of your own way-up the initial terrace. With the six Could possibly get, we were already when you look at the a temporary tent at the 6200 meters., significantly less than a steep deal with leading to the latest noticeable saddle within first patio and also the Jannu Valley. Which opened pitch are shielded having repaired ropes. The works is actually carried out in proceeded accumulated snow and breeze blowing regularly before the noon. Early in brand new morning off eleven Could possibly get, I left brand new tent (on 6200 meters.) with A beneficial. Sobolewski into Ft Go camping. We took place rapidly – an hour to help you Camp II, 1J hours so you can Camp I by 9-30 an excellent.yards. we had been currently inside Legs Go camping. Brand new route through the icefall not any longer existed! Fixed ropes and you may markers was indeed around frost particles – here need already been a tremendous path away from frost stops.
We met all-in Feet Camp. Right here i chose to create a special path to the initial terrace from top a portion of the lateral moraine in which we observed instead less dropping stones today than just 3 days eardier. Towards the p We and you can delivered their products to help you Camp II. From this day there can be zero Camp I but i went on to hold the earlier numeration. We oriented Go camping III (6350 yards.) towards seat.
On the p III, i kept the beds base Camp and J. Olszewski and decided to go to Go camping II. This new route through moraine is actually logically marked into the decorated brick-cairns by the S. Wdowiak and you will Sherpa Wangchuck which displayed a considerable visual performance from inside the carrying out that really work. The team out-of P. Mlotecki appeared down the exact same go out so you can Ft Go camping. Any other class-players are there but the fresh new Sirdar that has gone to Ghunza.
Following day we achieved Camp III and you will returned for the nights for the tent under the saddle, in which the piece of cake was not so striking. Into the sixteen Will get, a powerful snap generated this new active action quite difficult The group of W. Branski flow a little while ahead over the saddle, after that descended so you’re able to Feet, shortly after restoring ropes. Overnight we repaired these ropes to possess continuous play with, produced him or her stretched from the regarding the some other one hundred m. and turned-back on the night in order to Go camping III.
